Here’s an adaptation of a dish that Pomptonian serves in the school cafeterias in celebration of Hispanic Heritage Month. Pupusas are a traditional food with roots in the Pipil tribes of pre-Columbian El Salvador. “Pupusa” means “stuffed” in the Nahuatl language. Traditionally, they are made with corn masa and filled with beans, squash, and herbs. They are a staple in celebrations, family gatherings, and street food markets. Make the curtido three days in advance so flavors meld.
The pupusa recipe is by Ham El-Waylly, https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1024428
pupusas. The curtido recipe is by Francis Lam, https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017184-curtido.
12 servings
Ingredients
For the Curdito
- 1 pound cabbage, finely shredded (green or red or both)
- 2 cups chopped multi-color bell peppers
- 1 cup chopped carrots
- 1-2 chopped jalapenos, if desired
- 2½ cups water
- ¼ cup neutral vegetable oil (olive or canola)
- ½ of a medium onion, thinly sliced
- ½ cup white vinegar or apple cider vinegar
- 2 tablespoons kosher salt
- ½ to 1 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
- Black pepper, to taste
For the Filling
- 4 tablespoons neutral oil
- 3 jalapeño, seeded and diced
- Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
- 6 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
- 1½ teaspoons ground cumin
- 3 (15-ounce) cans black beans, drained
- 6 ounces low-moisture mozzarella or Oaxaca cheese, shredded
- (1½ cups)
- For the Dough
- 3 cups masa harina
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
- Neutral oil, for frying
Directions
- . Make the curtido: Combine all ingredients in a large, clean bowl. Using clean tongs or hands, gently crush the vegetables in the brine. Place a clean plate on top of the vegetables, and weigh it down to fully submerge them under the brine. Let sit at room temperature for at least 3 days, or longer to your taste; the flavor will deepen and mellow over time. When it’s to your liking, transfer to clean jars, making sure brine covers the vegetables, and store in the refrigerator. Can keep for weeks.
- Make the filling: In a medium skillet over medium heat, add the oil, jalapeño and a pinch of salt. Cook until
jalapeño has slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Stir in the beans and a pinch of salt. Mash with a fork or potato masher until most of the beans are mashed but
mixture is still chunky. Taste and season with salt, if necessary. Transfer mixture to a bowl and refrigerate until cool,
10 to 15 minutes. Once cool, remove from the fridge and stir in mozzarella until combined.
Divide the mixture into 4 portions. - Make the dough: In a medium bowl, combine the masa harina, salt and 2¼ cups warm water. Mix with straight,
stiff fingers to form a dough. Using both hands, roll into a ball and return to the bowl. The dough should not be
overly sticky, but also shouldn’t be so dry it crumbles. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes at room temperature Divide
the masa into 4 portions and roll into balls. While working with one ball, keep the others covered so they don’t dry
out. Using your thumb, create a divot in the middle of the ball. Continue pressing all around the divot to create a
bowl shape large enough to hold 1 portion of the bean filling. - Form the stuffed patties: Add the bean filling to the masa and pinch around the edges until it’s closed. Roll again
to make a uniform ball and place it on a piece of parchment paper. Using the palm and fingers of one hand, press
the ball into a ½-inch-thick cake that is about 4½ inches in diameter. (Masa is very malleable, so pinch to close
any cracks. It’s OK if some filling pokes through the surface of the corn cake.) Repeat with remaining portions of
dough. If at any point the masa is cracking too much, moisten your hands with warm water and knead masa to
reintroduce some moisture into the dough. - Cook the pupusas: In a large (12-inch) skillet over medium heat, add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan.
Once the oil is hot, gently add the pupusa by putting it on your fingertips and placing it in the pan away from
you like you are waving away a fly. Add a second pupusa to the pan and fry both until the sides touching the pan
are crispy with splotches of darker spots, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the pupusas and cook until the second sides are also
crispy, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels and season with salt. If there is any residue
in the pan, wipe it out with a paper towel and start with fresh oil to cook the remaining pupusas. Serve warm with
curtido or salsa alongside, if desired.
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